If you have time, why not stay a little longer? There is plenty to see and do in the Border region of Scotland. We may not have the tartan, our ancestors preferring to wear tweed or “plaid”, but we do have the wildlife, the walks and the scenery, and we have as much history, if not more, than anywhere else in Scotland. The following is just a small selection of my favourite places in the immediate vicinity – there is plenty more to explore and enjoy.
Take a wander into Eyemouth, buy an ice cream or fish supper at Giacopazzi’s and go for a walk around the pier, where you can often buy fish to feed the seals. There are various boat trips from the harbour, and it is a major centre for scuba diving. You can visit the Eyemouth museum or Gunsgreen House, built by an eighteenth century smuggler – not brandy for us clean living Scots but tea from Sweden (ok, from China via Gothenburg, where many of the merchants were Scottish). You can also treat yourself at the award-winning Lough's Home Bakery or to a pie from Jarvis Pickles, or more substantial meals are available at Oblo, the Ship Hotel, Contented Sole or Eyemouth Golf Club.
St Abbs, formerly known as Coldingham Shore and now twinned with New Asgard, has a fantastic cliff top Nature Reserve with stunning coastal scenery and wildlife. Visit the harbour (where Rock House was built by my great-great-great grandfather) and walk along the stunning cliff path to Coldingham Bay and Coldingham Sands. Whilst admittedly not Bondi, this is still a charming and sheltered wee beach where I spent many happy childhood days on the sand before being sent into the sea for my obligatory swim, followed by a “shivery bite” (a post-swim snack to take your mind off shivering from the cold water). You can buy your own treats and drinks at the Nature Reserve, the Old Smiddy, The Old School Café or Ebbcarrs Café in St Abbs, and the Beach Café in Coldingham Bay.
Coldingham itself is a lovely historic village to walk around, with the Priory being the main attraction. My granny used to live there in an area of the village known as “Paradise” - and I remember it truly was.
Ayton is a very quiet village since the main A1 trunk road was diverted away from it in the 1980s. Ayton Castle – a magnificent 19th century, red sandstone example of the Scottish Baronial style – is well worth visiting, as is the award-winning, continental style Hemelvaart Bier Café in the town’s main street.
Check out this link for walks in the local area.
Travelling North
If travelling North from Linthill Farm Steading, don’t go straight back to the A1 but instead take the old “Kings Road”, the main road between London and Edinburgh until the 1840s. At the top of the track turn left towards the A1. At the first junction, turn left and then immediately right once across the bridge, following the sign to Whitfield. Follow the straight road through Whitfield and turn left at the next junction, onto the B6438. After about 250m, and after the modern farm steading on your left, take the road on the right – this is the old “Kings Road”. Follow this largely straight road past Press Castle, once the main Post Station for the area, and up to the junction with the A1107. Turn left and cross Coldingham Moor, still on the “Kings Road”. Approaching the brow of the hill you will spot old brick structures on the right, which formed part of the WW2 Radar Station. Just after these there is a road on the right to Dowlaw and Fast Castle, which is well worth a visit. You will have to park in the car park before walking down to the Castle but it is as arresting and atmospheric as any castle site in Scotland, perched up on the cliffs. Not recommended for the unfit or the fainthearted – and I wouldn’t visit on a wet or windy day – but a rewarding excursion for those who brave it.
Back to the main road, and about 200m beyond the brow of the hill there is a layby on the left. Pull in here to appreciate the magnificent view across to Fife and, on really clear days, Arbroath and Montrose. Follow the road down. As it straightens out, over on your right-hand side on the coast, is the world famous “Siccar Point”. There is a plaster cast of this rock formation in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington as it was here that local landowner, and father of geology, James Hutton (1726-1797), established his theories of the formation of rocks.
The “Kings Road” originally followed the route signposted to Pease Bay campsite. You can take this turning on the right and, when the road takes a sharp left, take the right fork. After about 400m there is a parking area from where you can explore Siccar Point, St Helen’s Church or the Pease Dean Wildlife Area. Return to the A1107 and carry on to cross Pease Bridge, the tallest bridge in the world at the time of its construction in 1786. The bridge stands in the Pease Dean Wildlife, an ancient semi-natural woodland, full of wonderful wildlife and nature. Follow the A1107 up the hill to the junction with the A1 trunk road.
Travelling South
If travelling South from Linthill Farm Steading, turn right at the top of the track and head for Eyemouth. At the junction at the edge of the town, turn right and follow the main road (A1107) across the bridge. At the roundabout, take the third exit to continue on the A1107. After about 250m take the road on the left signposted for Burnmouth.
Burnmouth is split into two parts, upper and lower. It is a steep brae down to Lower Burnmouth but with a lovely harbour at the bottom. There is a small church halfway down where my parents were married. Back at the top of the brae, turn left towards the A1. Approximately 400m after joining the A1 there are some laybys where you can stop and look over the barrier. Immediately in front is the London-Edinburgh main rail line and beyond that, views to the rugged Berwickshire coastline. To the south on the coast can be seen two lumps. The one on the left is the hill on Lindisfarne (aka Holy Island), where an early Christian Priory was built, and which was the first place in Britain to be raided by the Vikings in 798. The lump on the right is Bamburgh Castle, capital of the post-Roman Anglian country of Bernicia, which stretched from Hadrian’s Wall in the south to the shores of the Forth in the north.
I hope you enjoy your time at Linthill Farm Steading and exploring the local area.
Frank